Numéro : 2481 - Year : 2006

Sea state numerical modelling: validation of the spectrum shapes

Fabrice ARDHUIN, Service Hydrographique et Océanographique de la Marine – Brest (France)

The forecasting or analysis of past sea states from wind fields is generally performed, at the scale of the oceanic basins by spectral models, which describe the evolution and the interaction of the different components. In spite their spectral character, these models are generally only validated on general parameters such as wave significative height, spectral peak period, and the direction of these peak. So this superficial validation ignores some undesirable interaction effects that forecast these models but which are not observed. In particular, the more used modelling for dissipating phenomena leads to an non-realistic increase of the wind waves with swell. Theses defects are shown by the SHOWEX data and corrected. The correction of these defects provides an improvement of the calculated spectral shape, and of the obtained integral parameters at the North Atlantic scale.

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