Association Technique Maritime et Aéronautique

Numéro : 2078 - Year : 1988

Microcomputer capabilities -numerical simulation of a crashing wave, which depth movement and profile are calculated with a microcomputer.

B.SCHAEFFER, Docteur ès Sciences


A new microcomputer program using a simple finite differences algorithm has been devised and applied to the simulation of the movement of a water wave generated by a piston-type wavemaker moving at a constant speed in a channel.

A grid is applied on the fluid domain, dividing it into quadrilateral cells where the pressure is constant and in quadrilateral elements obtained by joining the four immediate neighbours of the current node of the grid. During a time increment, an element is considered as a translating solid on which the surface forces are constant along each side. The body forces are constant in the

whole element. After having computed the resultant force, Newton's law is applied and the displacement obtained by integrating twice the acceleration, using first order finite differences. The two-dimensional fluid is homogeneous, weighty, compressible and has surface tension.

The computing method has been validated by comparison with experimental and numerical results from the Literature involving large free surface motion. The crashing of a wave has been successfully simulated. By varying depth and wavemaker speed, it was found that, while the base of the wave has a speed depending only on the depth, the crest has a speed twice that of the wavemaker. The screen of the microcomputer was filmed by a camera triggered by the microcomputer.

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